Anthoy Bourdain diceva che la cucina è un mondo di assoluti.
Di fatto tutta la ristorazione lo è. Lo spazio per l’interpretazione personale, per l’individuo e la sua soggettività, è ampio, ma esistono oggettività ineluttabili.
Un mondo matematico, un mondo dove il tempo alla fine premia la strada migliore inevitabilmente.
I taboo, l’omertà verso certi temi,i muri eretti a difesa di valori e tradizioni sbagliate o passate prima o poi vengono abbattuti.
Pensiamo a tutti i taboo della nostra società, a tutti quei divieti con i quali si cerca spesso di combattere un problema come la droga o la prostituzione.
Come combatte la società questi problemi? Salvo qualche eccezione sparsa per il globo, in molti paesi occidentali la strategia è quella della repressione.
Divieti, sanzioni, limiti in ogni dove. In Italia siamo arrivati ad equiparare tutte le droghe (sostanze stupefacenti) con la leggi Bossi/Fini. La prostituzione è totalmente fuori ogni norma anche se poi di fatto non realmente punita per legge (basta girare per le strade di periferia di notte).
Ma noi, che conosciamo un po’ di storia della ristorazione, per esempio della miscelazione, ricordiamo bene come il proibizionismo negli Stati Uniti fu totalmente inutile, anzi, creò quel fenomeno di contrabbando dell’alcool che generò a sua volta l’impero mafioso di chi gestiva quel monopolio illegale.
Ma a quanto pare la storia non piace a tutti, e allora torniamo al presente.
Parliamo di IMMIGRAZIONE!
Generalmente il problema immigrati quando viene affrontato trova il suo stallo nella questione “immigrati buoni” e “immigrati cattivi”.
Si passa per estremismi di rottura, schieramenti famelici, scontri di piazza, passando poi per momenti di riflessione e di compromesso in cui tutto si mischia e ti ritrovi lo schieramento intransigente che inizia a fare distinguo, e quello opposto che inizia a essere meno permissivo verso tutti.
Quelli di “DESTRA” dicono che non vogliono solo “alcuni immigrati”.
Quelli di “SINISTRA” dicono che comunque non c’è spazio per tutti.
Questo genere di distinzione non so voi, ma a me richiama subito quella che spesso si fa nella ristorazione tra “batteri buoni” e “batteri cattivi”.
Già perché se ci pensate da una parte siamo continuamente sotto l’attacco di quei batteri per il quale il disciplinare HACCP pretende (giustamente) sanificazione e prevenzione.
Al tempo stesso però, sempre i batteri, sono quelli che spesso ci sono più di aiuto, nella fermentazione di birre e “bollicine”, nella lievitazione di pane, pizze, e prodotti dolciari e ora moda crescente, nella fermentazione di verdure e frutte. Come dimenticare poi i formaggi, i famose erborinati, con le loro muffe (che non sono altro che funghi, anch’essi però di natura “buona” o “cattiva” in base al caso) “pregiate”!
In fin dei conti i batteri non sono altro che degli immigrati che vengono a inquinare i cibi così come li conosciamo, belli e intatti.
Un bel bianco latte che potrebbe originare un cremoso o morbido formaggio a pasta molle, uno stracchino magari, si colora di venature verdi/bluastre, date da quel malefico fungo Penicillium Roqueforti!
Ma è così che abbiamo il gorgonzola.
Ma la faccenda è un’altra. Batteri e funghi non si presentano con l’aureola. La scoperta del loro apporto positivo nella nostro cucina è spesso avvenuto per caso.
Pensate allo champagne, a come ai tempi di Pierre Pérignon, l’eccesso di anidride carbonica per effetto di una maturata fermentazione faceva letteralmente esplodere le bottiglie nelle cantine del frate, il quale piuttosto che deprecare l’incidente, ne studiò le cause, ne sfruttò l’effetto, e con i dovuti accorgimenti (presa di spuma, remuage sur pupitres e infine la sboccatura o dégorgément) ne tirò fuori un prodotto ancora oggi re indiscusso dei prodotti vinicoli.
Pasteur, l’uomo a cui si deve l’invenzione della pastorizzazione (che prende proprio da lui il nome), fece le sue scoperte sui batteri proprio studiandone gli effetti su vino e birra in particolare.
Anche lo yogurt, per esempio, fu probabilmente scoperto casualmente, dal momento che il latte veniva conservato dentro le otri ricavati dalla pelle o dallo stomaco degli animali da cui veniva ottenuto. I fermenti (batteri) e l’azione del calore davano vita ad un prodotto addirittura dalle proprietà benefiche per il nostro intestino.
Per non parlare dei formaggi! Pensate al Casu Marzu sardo, in cui addirittura sono le larve di una mosca a mangiare e digerire (per non dire altro!) lo stesso formaggio, regalandoci un prodotto cremoso dal sapore…decisamente particolare!
Lo stesso Casu Marzu che per la comunità europea è fuorilegge a causa di questi agenti esterni, o se vogliamo “extraformaggiari“.
Insomma, che la natura si alimenta ed evolve grazie alla diversità è cosa nota, o almeno dovrebbe esserlo per molti.
Le tematiche sociali come l’immigrazione non possono essere certamente discusse su una tavola apparecchiata, però ci sentiamo di dare un nostro punto di vista, noi che siamo a modo nostro esperti di agenti inquinanti, patogeni e intrugli vari.
Se in natura non vi fosse la contaminazione, i cibi non avrebbero scadenza e nessuno rischierebbe di ammalarsi a causa di Escherichia Coli, Stafilococco Aureo, e Salmonelle varie.
Ma al tempo stesso non avremmo il pane, i formaggi, la birra, il vino, l’alcool in generale!
La contaminazione è fondamentale.
La contaminazione è ricchezza.
Non saperla gestire può essere anche fatale ma solo per ignoranza.
Basta studiare e provare, e alla fine state certi che ne uscirà qualcosa di nuovo e di buono.
“Gli immigrati
sono come batteri
e io non potrei vivere
senza pane, birra,
formaggi e champagne!”
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