Causalità o Casualità? Strada per una Nuova Ristorazione.

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Causalità o Casualità? Strada per una Nuova Ristorazione.

Di - / 1.332 Commenti

Nasco da una famiglia che oggi potremmo certamente definire povera.
Quando nasci in un contesto simile nutri verso la casualità una certa avversione.
Essere nati in una famiglia ricca o povera non ha niente a che fare col merito.
Semplicemente è il CASO.
Essendo il mio avverso, o quantomeno poco favorevole, cercai di trovare fortuna nella causalità piuttosto che nella casualità.

La causalità indica l’esistenza di una condizione necessaria tra i fatti collegati tra loro da un rapporto di causa-effetto.
Un gioco stabilito attraverso regole che permettono al miglior giocatore di vincere.

Il caso è approssimativamente un tiro di dadi dove la sorte la fa da padrona.

Così mi sono ritrovato a scegliere a 20 anni solo lavori artigianali, prima giardiniere, poi falegname e infine il mondo della ristorazione. Perché un albero non lo puoi potare a caso. La natura il prossimo anno ti punirebbe ogni errore.
Un mobile su misura non puoi sbagliarlo nella progettazione nemmeno di un centimetro, pena doverlo riportare in laboratorio, disfare e rifare da capo.
L’artigianato non ammette negligenze e inizialmente pensavo che la ristorazione fosse così. Almeno, così dovrebbe essere in effetti.

In effetti il mondo della ristorazione ti fa credere in un primo momento di essere un settore “casualistico”.
Inizi come lavapiatti, rubi con gli occhi, ti fai valere nel momento del bisogno studi, impari, provi, giri tanti locali e così puoi un giorno diventare CHEF.
Inizi come portapiatti o runner, portando acqua e pane al ristorante rivolgendo a malapena parola ai clienti e col tempo, l’esperienza e dei corsi formativi mirati, potrai anche tu diventare maitre o direttore di sala.
Sulla carta è così.
In alcuni casi, non molti, a volte succede.

La verità è che oggi come oggi non è difficile trovare chef con poca gavetta, o direttori di sala che fino a qualche anno fa lavoravano nei villaggi turistici, pizzaioli diventati “MASTRI” dopo un corso e barman diventare global bartender dopo aver visto dei video tutorial su youtube.
Anche i migliori ristoratori spesso sono vittime del caso nei loro affari.
Pensate a come spesso le mode possono incidere sul mercato senza badare alla qualità offerta.
O peggio, come negligenze, approssimazioni, scorrettezze e cinismo vengano premiati in locali che meriterebbero i sigilli di chiusura, mentre attività virtuose hanno difficoltà a proporre qualità al giusto prezzo.

Questa poca causalità degli eventi ricade inevitabilmente sui dipendenti e infine anche sui clienti.
Il dipendente che si applica, studia e si forma costantemente, non sa se le sue capacità verranno espresse, sfruttate e infine economicamente riconosciute da un titolare altrettanto esperto e cosciente delle potenzialità che gli vengono messe a disposizione.
Il cliente pagherà per un servizio senza sapere fino all’ultimo se il prezzo sarà corrisposto realmente alla qualità offerta. A volte lui stesso non avrà gli strumenti adatti a capirlo e si affiderà quindi alle esperienze altrui sui tanto temuti siti e social dove chiunque può esprimere pareri, giudizi e critiche.
Anche chi non c’è mai stato magari in quel locale!

La ristorazione sta vivendo silenziose battaglia quotidiane in ogni suo reparto e ognuno di noi, dipendente, ristoratore, cliente, sembra essere solo in questo percorso che ognuno sta facendo per trovare il giusto stipendio, il modo di arrivare a far quadrare i conti a fine mese o di vivere una serata all’altezza del conto.

In verità secondo me siamo un’unica realtà che si divide in 2 grandi schieramenti.
Chi vive nella casualità, come chi serve un vino senza conoscerne la provenienza, chi cucina un filetto senza sapere cosa sia la reazione di Maillard, chi porta un menù senza saper spiegare i piatti del giorno, chi apre un’attività senza avere una copertura adeguata al rischio di impresa che dovrà sostenere, ne tantomeno essere sufficientemente esperto da farsi carico della responsabilità che gli concerne, chi entra in un ristorante senza sapere nemmeno sapere che tipo di offerta abbiano, quale menù o stile di servizio, come se un ristorante valesse altro, come se per comprare un paio di pantaloni si entrasse in un negozio d’abiti qualsiasi, che questo sia di sport o di abiti di sartoria, lamentandosi poi di non aver trovato quello che si cercava.

E poi ci sono quelli come me, magari come te, che vorrebbero lavorare in un contesto CAUSALE.
Dove lo stipendio è calcolato in base alle competenze offerte e le mansioni richieste, dove un curriculum riporta le effettive capacità messe a disposizione, dove il prezzo di vendita di un prodotto può essere tranquillamente stabilito in base al suo costo totale e non in base a quanto il cliente, spesso ignorante e reso tale ancor di più da “proposte casuali” di mercato, è disposto a pagare.

Quello che trovo più assurdo però di questa situazione è come quelli come me, e magari come te, aspettino che le cose cambino in maniera del tutto casuale.
Vogliamo causalità, ma aspettiamo che le cose migliorino da sole in maniera casuale?
Perché a conti fatti chi sta realmente facendo qualcosa per permettere a questa situazione di migliorare?
Esiste un percorso tracciato che punti direttamente a rendere qualità e professionalità il logico e consequenziale arrivo di questo enorme carrozzone dove chiunque sale per tornaconto personale ma senza che nessuno si preoccupi di dove stiamo andando o se perlomeno c’è una stazione di arrivo?

A quanto pare no.
Bisogna tracciare un percorso allora. Capire il punto A di partenza e stabilire il punto B di arrivo.
La renderò semplice.

La linea che unisce questi due punti è principalmente composta da FORMAZIONE e INFORMAZIONE. Una linea da immaginare come dei binari che dobbiamo iniziare a costruire per far si che chiunque intenda affrontare questo viaggio possa percorrerli.

Dobbiamo stabilire una volta per tutte cosa significa abbattere un pesce per servirlo crudo, decidere se è legale o meno per un barman manipolare qualsiasi prodotto che sia uno sciroppo di zucchero o una complessa fermentazione, definire l’importanza e responsabilità di un ristoratore tanto quanto di un qualsiasi operatore di cucina che manipola cibo, con la consapevolezza che il cibo può essere nutrimento o veleno.
Dobbiamo stabilire, scrivere nero su bianco, cosa è giusto fare e cosa non lo è e una volta stabilito essere noi stessi tutori di queste norme, perché quello norme sono e dovranno essere la base sulla quale costruire la causalità del nostro settore, quella stessa causalità che premierà il ristoratore più capace, il dipendente più professionale e il cliente più educato.

Qualcuno dirà:
“Esistono già queste regole. C’è l’HACCP per esempio”
Vero. Ma sareste disposti a scommettere che tutti quanti seguono quelle regole?
Nemmeno tutti. Diciamo la metà degli operatori.
Qualcuno potrebbe sostenere che alcune di quelle norme sono troppo restrittive o poco realistiche da applicare. Siamo sicuri? Se è così allora bisognerebbe a maggior ragione stabilire nuovamente tali regole.
E per quanto riguarda il servizio in sala? Un tempo c’erano regole date da bon ton e convenzioni del secolo passato. Le seguiamo ancora?
I nostri clienti si attengono a quelle regole o è un dialogo tra sordi?

Bisogna porsi domande e darci delle risposte che ci mettano d’accordo per poi diventare ambasciatori di quello che può e deve diventare una sorta di codice.

Se riusciremo a costruire un percorso simile, non sarà una battaglia tra noi contro quelli che “avrebbero dovuto scegliere un altro lavoro”. Sarà una sfida verso noi stessi nel cercare di creare una realtà ristorativa che potrà includere tutti quanti.

Perché il nostro lavoro è l’Ospitalità, e non potremmo onorare un simile onere se non riuscissimo tra di noi a essere coesi in un traguardo che possa rendere tutti vincitori.
UN’UNICA BRIGATA è più di un motto.
Deve essere il nostro obiettivo.
Un obiettivo che potremo conseguire solo se avremo delle regole chiare per esserne parte e quelle regole bisogna stabilirle in maniera chiara una volta per tutte.
Serve un CODICE DEONTOLOGICO.

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